HP1150

Hi everyone!  School has been in session for two weeks here, and I’m so ready for Fall temperatures.  But, it’s still upper 90’s and gawdawful humid!  I can’t bring myself to pull out the wool fabric yet, but some layering pieces would be a nice addition to my closet. Recently, I tried out this pattern, the Wong-Singh-Jones Maharajah Jacket.

IMG_5540

Hard to photograph white, I finally got a decent picture at night, indoors, no flash.

IMG_5529

Ok, so you can’t see the details here, but you can see proportions and fit.

IMG_5526

Description

This is a semi-fitted jacket that has princess panel seams with bust darts, vertical welt pockets and empire seam.  It finishes at the high hip and has two-piece, 3/4 length sleeves.  It has a shaped neckband, topstitching, and a wrap-front with loops and buttons.

Pattern Sizing

The sizing of the pattern runs 6-26, all in one envelope.  The 3/8 inch seam allowances are included in the pattern, so it’s fairly easy to trace the pieces

Easy instructions? 

Not really, but the pattern is classified as Intermediate.  In this case, you need to be comfortable with sewing curved seams,setting in sleeves, and accurate top-stitching.

Fabric Used

I used a crinkle cotton from my stash that I block-fused with Pro Tailor Deluxe from Fashion Sewing Supply.  Seriously, best products ever!!  I also lined it.  Optional lining pieces are included in the pattern.

IMG_5543

Pattern alterations

I made a whole heckofalot of alterations.  I’ve yet to figure out the whole HotPatterns fitting block.  According to my measurements, I’m somewhere between a 10 and 12.  Other reviews I had read said that the sleeves were on the small side, so just to be safe, I cut a size 12 from muslin. 

 

WP_20140805_001[1]

(let’s see if I can list them all…)

WP_20140805_002[1]

Can you figure them all out from the pictures here?  I shortened the armscye by pinching out a whole inch in the front, back, and sleeve cap.  Before that, I re-traced and re-cut the upper portion in a size 10, tapering to a 12 below the empire seam.  I also pinched out two inches in the upper back, tapering to nothing at the empire seam in the center back.  I shaved the sleeve caps an additional quarter-inch off the top, even after shortening them the first time (see above muslin pictures). 

If you want to make this one yourself, I highly recommend you make a muslin first.  I think the pattern instructions recommend it as well.  Also, you need to be comfortable with sewing those curved seams at the neck.  And, let’s just say that neither my curved seaming nor my topstitching are perfect:

IMG_5548

This is going to bother me, I just know it.  I’ll probably remove the topstitching at some point.  The rows aren’t too bad, and the curved seam is barely acceptable.  But, put them together, and…GAH!

IMG_5540

I like the welt pockets, easy to set in on the seam:

IMG_5537

Dressy, and cool with an edge!  This is definitely something different!

Vogue 1236

IMG_5485

IMG_5486

Back view.

I was trying to think of a catchy title for this post, to more aptly describe this dress.  “The camera adds 10 pounds, and so does this dress!” or just simply “Ho Hum”.

I blame the fabric.

IMG_5495

Back in 2011 when this pattern first came out, I bought this seersucker fabric specifically for this pattern.  Now, I’m thinking it looks too much like pajamas, definitely not like the  pattern picture.  I liked the idea of this fabric more than the actual result.  Hate it when that happens.

I’ll make this again,  it’s very easy.  The only fit alteration I made was to sew up the shoulder seams with an inch allowance (sewing up my usual size 12). 

IMG_5497

“ho hum”

To construct this dress, I decided to stick with the pattern directions, and used the neck facing pattern pieces.

IMG_5488

 

IMG_5491

I don’t usually use pattern facing pieces but for this dress, I felt it would help to stabilize the narrow shoulder straps, as well as finish the arm holes nicely.  If you notice, the the front shoulders are almost completely on the bias, pulled in by the neck pleating.

The back facing is nice and big, making a nice back stay.  Recognize what I did with the hanging edge?  I sewed the interfacing to the lining at the unfinished edge, turned then fused the pieces together.  I love that technique!

The other thing I did was sew up some strips of selvage at the pocket opening.

IMG_5489

As much as I love pockets in dresses, I’ll not add them on the next one.  There’s enough extra fabric at the hip area already.

IMG_5487

UGH!  This fabric!  I don’t think it’s quite my color.  Or, perhaps it has too much of an 80’s vibe (in my high school, pinstripes were all the rage, even the jeans had pinstripes, ugh, but I digress).  Maybe It would look much better made up in a nice shirt!

Here’s what it looks like unbelted.

IMG_5506

Paired with a cardigan, not too bad.  We’ll see if I change my mind on this after it sits for a while in my closet.

grumble grumble grumble……

Lapis Yoke Pullover

IMG_5493

Lapis Yoke Pullover by Hannah Fettig

I think I’m going to LOVE this.  I mean REALLY love it!!

I tried this on briefly just to check fit and it’s not too tight, not too big, the sleeves are just the right size.   SCORE!!

That just makes me so darn happy!  Usually I have to rip back and alter my knitted things before they’re ready to wear.  Not this one, yay!

This will go great with jeans and sneakers, my winter uniform.

I started this pullover while ago; currently, I’m being very good and finishing up all my works-in-progress.  I’ve not bought any new fabric/yarn, in quite some time.  Another Yay!

I’ll model it at some point this Fall, right now it’s too stinking hot.

If you want to see more information about this sweater, you can find it on my projects page on www.ravelry.com

I hope everyone is having a great Summer, I know I have!  School starts back in a few weeks here, so we’re all gearing up for that..or, at least trying to.

Motivation is a problem…

Until later!!

Vogue 1247

IMG_5465

Vogue 1247

Would you believe there are 98 reviews for this pattern???  Now, a lot of them are for the accompanying skirt as well, but still….it’s popular!

Based on all of those reviews, I decided to go down two sizes and cut out the size 8.  I like my tops longer than what was pictured on the pattern, so I also added 1 1/2 inches to the hem.

I used this crazy silk scarf print from my stash; I didn’t have much, so I didn’t try too terribly hard to match patterns.

IMG_5478 

IMG_5466

 

Is this not fun? This top very comfortable.  Making up the smaller size resolved any concerns about the top revealing too much cleavage, but I think it could use another 2 inches in length. Here you can see that the back is two separate pieces, sewn together in the center (if I had more fabric, I would have done a better job of matching the up the print Smile).

IMG_5477

Seriously, this top is ROOMY!

I used some pre-packaged bias to finish the neck edge, and I turned up the sleeves twice to finish them.  The instructions called for a separate sleeve facing, but I didn’t finish my sleeves that way.

IMG_5467

 

IMG_5468

Here is the sleeve hem, just turned up twice and pressed.  I hand-tacked it in place.
A lot of the reviews mentioned that this top has an oversized hospital scrub vibe, and, yeah, I can see that. But, despite all that this pattern is still very popular.  Why?   Well, it sure is comfortable, especially in this 98 degree weather we’re having.  It’s a great designer pattern, and has no complicated snaps/buttons/zippers.  The trickiest step is getting the pieced points to meet center front.

IMG_5470

If the print of your fabric is busy enough, it won’t matter if the points match or not, LOL!

Vogue 8881

IMG_5454

Ahhhh…something simple!!  This is a quick-to-make top using Vogue 8881.  I was using up some leftover knit, a cute stripe from Gorgeous fabrics.  I made no effort to match the stripes, since I didn’t have much fabric.  This is an easy pattern.  I just serged up the seams, and finished the arms and neck.  I didn’t finish the hem.  I made a size Medium; I’m normally size 12 in Vogue patterns.

IMG_5462

 

IMG_5459

Summer Linen

I finished up another knit top, using a pattern from this book:

knittingbook

There are lots of cute patterns in this book, I made the Layered Ruffle Sweater, shown here:

IMG_5452

I think it was the glass of wine that got my attention

Looking at the picture, you can tell that the top is pretty low cut.  Also, I wasn’t sure how those ruffles would look on me.  Well, here’s how it turned out:

IMG_5424

IMG_5429

Not feeling those ruffles?  Yeah, me either.  Fortunately, they were easy to add and remove.  Plus, the top is too low for my comfort.  I removed the ruffles, and added a second row of single crochet around the neck.

IMG_5441

I used Claudia Handpaint Linen, and 100% linen sport weight yarn.

 

IMG_5451

Much better!  I kind of like it with my vintage CAbi maxi skirt.

For more details, my Ravelry page, I’m Sewellen over there too!  Have a great weekend!

Vogue 1381

IMG_5421

….big sigh….

It took me a long time to write a review about this one.  I didn’t want to come off as a hater, but for more than 3 months, this dress and I were at WAR!! …ahem…

OK!  SO!   I’m going to use a positive, and constructive tone, and I’ll not be negative (snort!).  Rather, I’ll give you my advice on making this one up.  And, I hope you do, make this dress, that is.  Why not?  This is like the cutest dress ever!  The A-line skirt is very pretty, I love the inset pockets, and the top doesn’t appear to have a lot of fit issues. 

Here’s the bugaboo:  the quilted inserts. 

IMG_5434

IMG_5438

Bulky much??

The pattern calls for “fleece interfacing”.  In quilter’s speak, that’s just plain batting.  Here, I used a product called “Warm & Natural”. 

I thought it would be thin enough, but it turned out to be way too bulky, especially at points where all the seams meet.

IMG_5440

Even if there wasn’t a problem with intersecting seams, like the top  here, all this quilting and batting changed the hand of the fabric, so that the top no longer draped well on the body.

 

For me, the coup de grace came after inserting the invisible zipper.

IMG_5423

Imagine, if you can, after perfectly matching up seams, sewing the zipper in, the darn thing breaks!  Well, why wouldn’t it?  You’re trying to fold all that bulk back over onto itself, and yank the zipper pull across all of it?  Not gonna happen.

You can also see in the above picture another view of how the bodice sits away from the body with the added stiffness of the quilting.

I’ve set this dress aside, maybe I’ll pull it out next Spring and attempt to re-work it.

SO!  Here’s my advice to you, should you choose to attempt this dress (and I really hope you try it…it’s so cute, you should try and overlook the fussy-ness):

don’t use fleece batting, or any other type of “interfacing” for the quilted sections.  Simply lay the fashion fabric and lining together and quilt with nothing in-between. 

If you just have to have that lofty-quilted look, then make sure to cut the seam allowances off your batting before you begin quilting your piece.

I suppose you could also make this up without quilting the pattern pieces altogether, but I think the quilting/topstitching lines are a key design feature of this dress.

Here are some other nice elements:

IMG_5435 

Lined skirt

 

IMG_5437

Bias-finished pockets

I’m going to remain positive, it’s not a wadder.  I will fold this up til next year, though.  The quilted pieces just need to be re-cut and sewn, and it will need a new zipper.

Right now, though, I need something easy!

Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!!

In a few words, I am addicted to sewing! I want to try everything, learn everything and talk about it with you!

Tany et La Mode

Make time to sew, Dahling!!!

Red Point Tailor

Couture | Jewelry | Fashion accessories | For Active Modern Woman

yoshimi the flying squirrel

Make time to sew, Dahling!!!

fit for a queen

Tales from the Sewing Studio

Did You Make That?

A sewing, knitting and crochet blog

SewEllen

Make time to sew, Dahling!!!

Pretty Grievances

When I'm not complaining, I sew....

Goodbye Valentino

hello needle and thread

Catherine Daze's Blog

Wannabe 80s scifi sewist

Erica B.'s - D.I.Y. Style!

Make time to sew, Dahling!!!

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 32 other followers