McCall’s 7100

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McCall’s 7100

I’m very late to the bomber jacket trend, I know.  I have no idea why, because this is an easy pattern to make up. 

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I made it slightly more difficult by using this embroidered loose-weave cotton and lining the whole thing (bag-lined it by machine).

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Loose fit and raglan sleeves mean no fitting issues for me.

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Easy Peasy

There are a ton of versions of this pattern that have been made up all over the internet, and they’re all gorgeous.  I’m pretty sure I’ll make another.  I could use a slight FBA for the next one, maybe 1/2 inch.  This fabric is very loose-weave embroidered cotton; the stitching probably won’t hold for long, and I need to be careful not to bump into anything, because the machine embroidery and eyelet work are already becoming a bit “fuzzy”.

Still, though, it’s getting some good wardrobe rotation right now, and lots of compliments!

Highly recommended!

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Vogue 2465

Back in February, I went clothes shopping in a new-to-me store called Doncaster.  It had great well-made clothing that seemed to cater to the ladies-of-a-certain-age crowd.  I tried on pair of beautiful black lace capris that fit like a dream, but at over $400, there was no way I could buy them.  They were pretty though.  I kept thinking, obsessing, even found a picture of them online:

Ideal for the office or for a night out on the town, the Lace Ankle Pant will add a stylish touch to your day no matter where you’re heading. -- Shop the Lace Ankle Pant at www.doncaster.com/ #DoncasterStyle

They’re simple, lined black lace capris.  You really could wear these anywhere, dressed up, down, you name it.

I can make that!

I found lace at Fine Fabrics in Atlanta, and I had some lining in my stash.

I started with a simple pants pattern I’ve had in my collection, Vogue 2465.

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This is an old wardrobe pattern, the pants pattern had what I wanted, simple darts, no pockets, something I could alter easily.

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Boy, do I love them, can I tell you?

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Of course, black is so terribly hard to photograh

As for the pattern, it was merely a starting point.  I started with size 14, let out the darts, lowered the waistband, tapered the inside back leg (I do that with most pants patterns, eliminates baggy seats), raised the hem, eliminated the waistband, and I-dont-know-what-all-else.  I used the lining as my muslin, I know it’s a no-no, but there you have it.

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Simple side-seam zipper

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The brightness is grossly distorted in this picture, but you can see the lace-over-lining.  I’m quite happy with how they turned out!

Okay, so the shoes: another obsession of mine.  I’d been wanting these Prada oxfords for YEARS.  No kidding!  I’m a sucker for shoes with crazy colors.  These finally appeared on ebay, and I snatched ‘em!

Spring is sneaking up on us in Atlanta, I know it’s nothing like what others are dealing with (snow? really?), but today it’s rainy and chilly, here at the end of April.

Bye for now!

Vogue 8774 again

There is a great article written in the Oct/Nov 2013 edition of Vogue Patterns about jeans.  The article discussed, among other things, the use of heavy duty denim and altering a pattern for a boyfriend look.  I held on to the article with the hopes of one day trying the technique.  It only took me 5 years, ha!

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picture from Vogue Patterns Magazine

Following the steps listed in the article, I adjusted the leg pieces to run along the selvedge.  You get the basic idea from the above picture, where the red lines are the adjustments made. I didn’t alter the back pocket, just kept it the same as before.  You can also see in the above picture that the authors opted for a straight waistband, but I liked the fit of the curved one from the pattern, so I kept it curved.

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For the crotch and fly, I used the technique outlined in the Angela Wolf Class on Craftsy. Easy peasy!

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This is heavy 12 oz denim with no stretch.

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I had the fit down with the previous pair I made, so no further adjustments were necessary.

These turned out great!  They’re just how I wanted, loose and comfy.

Vogue 8774

I’m Still searching for the perfect fitting jeans, how about you?  I’ve made quite a few pairs of jeans over time, 3 pairs of the wonderful Jalie 2908’s  and a copy from RTW. Well, I’m back at it now, and up for a  sewing challenge.  I’m apparently on a jeans kick, and lately I’ve been liking the boyfriend patchwork look.

from Pinterest.

Журнал Burda

from Pinterest

Even one of my favorite clothing lines CAbi has a patch-y jean this season:

www.cabionline.com

  I’ve had this pattern in my stash for a while, it appears to now be out of print.

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I made up the muslin from some home-dec fabric:

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I cut a size 14 and made a few alterations.  I like the loose leg so I left that alone.  The pattern tells you that it sits a good 2 1/2 inches below the natural waist, which was way too low for my comfort; I raised the rise an inch on both the front and back pieces.

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I redrew the back upper leg using the size 12 line.  It brings in a bit of the baggy seat. 

To avoid the head-slapping moment that I had, don’t forget to change your fly and fly facing pattern pieces as well (in this case, I added an inch to those pieces).

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I took in the center back seam at the top about 1/4 inch, which meant I cut a size 12 back yoke.  I also cut a 1/2 inch wedge out of the yoke horizontally, tapering to nothing at the side seam.  Now, I know what you’re thinking:  those back seams look weird.  Yes, I made this pair of pants from old cut-up jeans and other denims from my stash.

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I’m clearly out of practice on my topstitching, and I topstitched the crotch seam on the wrong side.  Bias binding on the fly is a nice touch.

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Despite all the stitching flaws, these are some of the most comfortable pants I’ve made in quite some time.  With more washing and wearing, these will get broken in nicely.  While I was making these, I was watching the Jeans class by Angela Wolfe on Craftsy.  It’s a great class and I highly recommend it!  It’s got great tips that I used for this pair, like using sand paper to distress denim, hammering bulky seams flat for easier stitching, and cool topstitching tips for the back pockets.  There is a wealth of information.  If you want to improve your jeans-making, go buy this class!  For my next pair, I’ll be using this pattern and some heavyweight all cotton denim.  Happy sewing!

StyleARC Adeline Dress and more Alabama Chanin work

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Adeline Dress

Hello!  Last week, I wandered a bit aimlessly into my sewing room and 3 hours later, I had a completed dress.  Has this ever happened to you?  It happened to me.

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I cut a size 12 based on my measurements and made no fitting adjustments, except to raise the hem an inch.  This is an easy one-piece dress.  The only time-consuming parts are the neck and hem facing.  You can see in the above picture the hi-lo hem, very cute.  This is a heavy linen from my stash.  You can make it with a back seam or not; I had to add it here because I didn’t have enough fabric for 2 big pattern pieces.  I didn’t topstitch the neck facing, just tacked it down at the shoulder seams.

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And now, some hand-sewing!

Wondering what to do with leftover jersey?  Make a scarf!  It’s a great canvas for surface embellishment!

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I had some leftover stenciled blue jersey from my Alabama Chanin dress.  I cut a long rectangle and used some orange jersey from my stash.

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It’s all simple hand-stitching, something to do while watching TV.

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Vogue 1792

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It’s a rare thing when I use a pattern more than once, but I’ve made this pattern up 3 times now!

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2001

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2007

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It’s long out of print, but the lines are very classic.  One day I’ll make that beautiful sheath dress!

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Interesting how different the jacket turned out when using a knit!  Behold the slouchy-ness!

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I made no changes in the fit, but I left off the bottom band.  I added the hand-stitched binding to sleeves and hem. I think I’ll add a snap or other clasp (hand stitched, natch).

Hand topstitching completes the Alabama Chanin inspired top.

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Slouchy, comfy knit, classic wardrobe-building!

#alabamachanin, #schoolofmaking.

I’m not stopping with the hand-stitching.  I had a bit of the leftover stenciled blue knit so I layered it with an orange knit from my stash:

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You can see the in-progress stencil work layered over plain orange knit.  A simple running stitch outlines the shapes done with 2 strands of orange dmc embroidery floss.  It’s going to be a large scarf/shawl.

Happy Handwork!!

Alabama Chanin A-Line dress

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It took months of hand-stitching, but it’s finally finished!

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photo lightened to show the stenciling.

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As you can see, the pattern is very simple, just 4 panels.  I altered for fit, mostly taking in the skirt volume a good amount.  I also raised the neckline.  It’s still a full dress, very swingy.

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It’s all about the stenciling and hand embroidery.  This stencil is called New Leaves.  The fabric is a knit from Fine Fabrics in Atlanta. 

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I’m hooked!  I love these garments!  More to come soon, I’ve been stitching a scarf with some remaining stenciled fabric.

Also, I did manage to get some pics of me wearing my Brooklyn Tweed sweater:

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This is the only picture that really showcases the hi-low hem, which I love.  More to come!

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