Vogue 1792 (oop)

vogue1792 (2)

I’m seeing so much houndstooth this season!  It’s the perfect opportunity to use a piece of brown and gray wool/cashmere houndstooth that I’ve kept in my stash for soooo long.  I’ve made a jacket from this pattern before and I was so successful with it, I decided to use it again to make up another using my beautiful houndstooth.  Here it is the first time I made it, from cotton/linen with topstitching, 3/4 length sleeves, nice fit, very Jackie O.


Here it is the second time:



For some reason, the houndstooth jacket, wasn’t coming out like I had envisioned.  I’ll finish it and wear it, but it’s just not doin it for me right now.  I’ll post a pic as soon as I’m done with it.  Amazingly enough, I had enough fabric left over to make up Simplicity 3627:
Now this is what I wanted!  It’s very trendy, you can wear it with jeans; plus, I just saw this exact jacket in the mall today.  I also am working on a skirt,
just to coordinate, but I’m using cheap fabric, so it’s not coming together very well.  More pics are coming.


Butterick 3391

Try as I might, with open mind and hopeful heart, I cannot embrace the babydoll shirt look.  I have no desire to look pregnant again, no matter how stylish this trend is supposed to be.  However, I still want some sort of modern stylish tee-shirt, since that does seem to be my daily uniform  This moderate stretch knit was from my stash and I tried this conservative view, with plans to make the other views if I liked the fit.
october2007 102 
I took this in front of the Ott-Light to shocase the neckline detail.  That’s all there is to this shirt, no ruffles or gathers where they don’t need to be, adding unwanted pounds.  Here’s another picture:
october2007 104
The pattern is Butterick 3391 (OOP, naturally!).  This has nice little cap sleeves and goes together quickly.  I used a moderate stretch knit, so this shirt is very tight for my taste.  With a looser knit, it would be great!  This is a definite keeper, with more conservative styling, if that’s your thing.

The Sewing Workshop Tribeca Shirt

I wore this shirt/Jacket to church today:
tribecashirt 002
This is the Tribeca Shirt from The Sewing Workshop
The tribeca shirt is a simi-fitted, mid-hip shirt or jacket that has french seams, funnel neck, shoulder, bust, and waist darts, set-in two-piece sleeves and narrow hems on all edges.  I had this beautiful piece of teal silk dupioni with couched chenille (purchased from DeLea’s when the shop was in Cherry Creek, Denver, CO, loved that shop!) that I wanted to showcase.  This is a great pattern for that, as it is only 4 pattern pieces and all the shaping is done with darts.  Reviews on PR state that this pattern runs huge, and I found this to be the case also.  According to my bust measurement, I cut out a size 12, but went down to a 10 for a loose jacket style.  If I wanted this as a shirt, I would cut an 8.  I always underline silk dup with organza, but for this I wanted more body.  Plus, the directions have you finishing the collar and center fronts with a turned-under hem (oh no!).  What if I wanted to turn my collar front back as in the above picture?  I didn’t want the hem to show!  I decided to line the entire shirt with self-fabric that I interfaced with a lightweight fusible.  This finishes the collar and provides the stiffness that I wanted.  Now, we all know never to use fusibles on silk dupioni (at least I don’t) because the stuff never stays fused and we’re left with visible bubbles and puckers.  But I did this on the lining, and the only part that will show will be the collar points.  The sleeves got the silk organza.  Here’s another picture:
tribecashirt 001
Buttonholes on silk dupioni?  Hmmmmm, scared of that.  For this I made bound buttonholes, I only had to make 3.  This is a loose-fitting, very comfortable jacket that got lots of compliments today, always a good thing.  If you use this pattern, be prepared to decide how to treat that collar.  If you want it to flip open, as I do, know that the underside will show and plan accordingly.  Also, funnel collars are dramatic and not for everyone, but I kinda like just this one piece in my closet.  This would be beautiful made up in a double-sided or wool with simple pinked edges.  I saw that very thing yesterday in the window of a Coldwater Creek store.  Soon, I’ll be firing my current photographer, and retiring the camera.  I have a new potential hire, but I’m waiting for him to turn ten (don’t ask why).

Simplicity 9309

Today is October 19th and the time to get your Halloween costumes completed is coming to a close.  Here is a cute number that you can easily whip up the night before. 
Pattern  Description:                                                                                                                                         simp93092
This is a simple slip dress with a sheer overlay.  There are 2 sleeve options.  All the shaping is done on the center front panel with loose lacing and decorative cording.
Pattern Sizing:
I used size 10
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
What did you particularly like  or dislike about the pattern?
I liked how easy this was to make up.  The slip has no shaping, there were 2 pieces, easy and quick.  The sheer over dress was not much harder.  The sleeves could be a bit looser, but…; I also like the styling, dramatic, but not overly sexy.  You could wear this to an office party, family party, or adult party.
Fabric Used:
Poly crepe-backed satin from my stash and a cute sheer netting with flocked sparkly bat silouettes from Jo-Anne’s
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: none
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? yes indeed
Please forgive the horrible picture quality, a new camera is definately on the wish list.  I won’t even go into how messy my sewing room/office is!    Anyway, I like the lacing on the front detailing.  You can pull this up to make the dress tight fitting or not.  There’s no tough fitting issues here.  I recommend a serger for use on the
netting, otherwise you could use french seams.  simp93093    simp9309

Vogue 2204

I finally did it!  I have been sooo needing a black winter coat.  I have a brown one, but sometimes, it just isn’t the look I want.  I’ve been shopping informally for some time for some reasonably priced black wool coating.  I DID find some beautiful wool/cashmere at Mood fabrics in NY last November, but at $80.00/yd, I couldn’t justify buying 6 yds of it, plus another suitcase to lug it back home.  Thanks to all you bloggers out there, I have a new love called www.gorgeousfabrics.com !  There, I bought a beautiful piece of black wool coating and began the process.  The pattern I used was another story, and it started with the 2001 issue of Vogue Patterns and #2204, a Claude Montana coat.  Georgous, but would this be too much of a look for me?  Would the enormous collar make me look like a clown? hmmm…. Well, I finally got brave this year, ’07, and went to buy it.  Naturally, the pattern was OOP by then and I couldn’t find it anywhere.  Finally, one appeared on ebay, my size and I bought it.
Pattern Description:
From envelope: loose-fitting, slightly flared, lined coat, above ankel, has collar, collar band, princess seams, side front pockets, long two-piece sleeves and purchased cord for raised topstitching.
Pattern Sizing:
6-8-10, I used size 10
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, the pattern has a surface cording detail on the collar, sleeves and at the bottom, which I chose to leave off.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Well…I bought my pattern on ebay (first time to buy a pattern from ebay) and it was missing the first page of the instructions.  Luckly, the coat part was straightforward.  I did refer to Power Sewing Step by Step by Sandra Betzina to insert the inseam pockets, no trouble. 
What did you particularly like  or dislike about the pattern?
I wasn’t too crazy about the way the sleeves were setting in the garment.  These were 2 pieced sleeves and I wasn’t sure if the seams in the back were supposed to meet up with the princess seams of the body.  I took a wild guess and had them offset slightly.  It doesn’t show under the collar.  The collar is the dramatic "thing" on this coat.  It’s made by attaching a collar stand to the coat and then the collar to this piece.  The pattern has a separate undercollar pattern and top collar pattern, as well as separate lining patterns.
Fabric Used:
I used the beautiful wool coating from Georgous Fabrics.  I managed to squeak this coat out of 4 yards of fabric, even though the pattern calls for 5-6 yards.  Black lining was whatever they had at Joanne’s.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
Not much, the usual shortening of sleeve length, and for petites below the waist.  However, this coat is pretty long, so even after all the shortening, I still made a 2 1/2" hem (pattern calls for 2").  The instructions also call for a sleeve facing, much like a cuff, but I left those off, and simply turned up the hem.  I made my own shoulder pads by following the directions in Threads issue #133 pages 64-66, article by Sharon Blair.  Tape the front and back pattern pieces together at the shoulders and trace a shoulder pad pattern.  I then cut out three layers of Warm and Natural Batting and topped that off with cotton organdy.  Then I pad stitched all of that by machine.IMG_2035
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
One of these in your closet is enough, but i love how this turned out!  I think the collar is a very dramatic look.
I think this coat weighs about 20 pounds.  Seriously, this is a nice heavy coat.  I’ll definately wear it the 3 days a year that one needs a heavy coat in Atlanta.  I’m also going to add 2 buttons at the front to close the coat.  The pattern didn’t call for any sort of closure, what’s up with that?

Indygo Junction Trench Topper

Pattern Description:
"Three coats. From classic to whimsical, take you anywhere with their versitile longer length. All are encircled with a lower band to blend or punctuate. Seaming softly shapes them for a flattering fit…"

Pattern Sizing:

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Were the instructions easy to follow?
well, easy enough until I got to the applied belt. There are several reviews about this pattern in magazines and on this site that mention the poor drafting of this pattern. Grainlines are not marked on all pattern pieces, and forget about notches anywhere. That being said, this coat does go together very well. I got stumped at the belt. The coat itself is princess seamed and nicely curved at the waist. How was I to apply a straight rectangle over an area that was shaped at the waist without producing puckers? Somehow, it worked. I carefully basted the belt on and then topstitched. You lose some of the pretty waist shaping when done this way. I think if I made this again, I would make the tie separate and add belt loops.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I made view 1, which called for elastic loops to attach to the top and bottom buttons. The middle button had the buttonhole in belt tab. This just isn’t very sturdy, IMO. I couldn’t figure another way to close this coat and keep the attractive lines from the picture.
Fabric Used:
I used a funky Alexander Henry cotton from my stash. I’ve actually seen this fabric done up as luggage! This piece I bought at Nancy’s Sewing Basket in Seattle. The coordinating piece was a linen from my stash that happened to coordinate.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I chose to line this coat to cut down on wrinkling. I just cut out the same pieces from lining fabric and made a separate coat. This also happened to be my working muslin. The fitting chart is not found anywhere in the pattern, I had to go on the website to figure out what size to cut out. According to my measurements, I wore large. The muslin was way too big, so I went back and cut out a medium, which fit fine. The linen panels and collar are interfaced with a lightweight fusible. Collar and edges are topstitched.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Definately! Now that I have it fitting correctly, I would like to try out some different views and maybe a "calmer" fabric.

this is a cute pattern, and comfortable. Try it!

Vogue 2827

The recent post on www.besewstylish.com (http://besewstylish.taunton.com/n/blogs/blog.aspx?webtag=besewstylish&redirCnt=1) reminded me of a project I completed last year using a leather jacket that I rescued from VERY 80’s styling.  I had bought the original jacket at a crazy store called Unclaimed Baggage.  If you’re ever in North Alabama, it’s worth swinging over to Scotsboro.  Seriously, it’s a store where all lost luggage and contents end up.  It’s yard sale heaven, if you like that sort of thing.  Anything and everything is for sale (including fabric).  Clothing, jewelry, all manner of electronics, ANYTHING.  I bought a Samsonite suitcase and a black leather jacket.  This jacket was cursed by the 80s: humoungous dolman shoulder pads, verrry roomy dropped sleeves, a lover-ly double breasted closure that was very roomy and closed way down at the thighs (perfect to wear with your stirrip pants!);  this thing hung in my closet for at least 8 years and needed to be thrown out or reworked.  Since I’m a baby blogger, I regret that I don’t have any "before" pictures or construction pictures of this jacket.  I chose Vogue 2827.  I went to ripping the jacket apart at the seams and unglue-ing the hems-: messy business.  I’d never sewn a leather garment before, and this was good practice.  I had just received my new teflon foot from my Bernina dealer, and I was armed with all my leather sewing articles; I was ready to go.  First, the pattern:
Pattern Sizing:
Size 12,14,16.  I used a size 12
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
yep, except I shortened the jacket a good 1 1/2 inches
Were the instructions easy to follow?
yes, but since I was using leather, I didn’t follow them much
What did you particularly like  or dislike about the pattern?
I like it when patterns have separate patterns for linings (this one does); they usually include the nice pleat in the back.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
a bunch.  I had made a test muslin and found the under arm seams way too low, prohibiting movement.  I raised them on front and back pieces 1/2 inch.  I also let out the waist 1/2 inch, tapering to original pattern at hip and under arm.  I also raised the corresponding underarm seams on the sleeve pattern as well, tapering to nothing at the notches.  As usual, I shorten the sleeves, fronts and backs for petites.  I shortened the hem also.  I didnt want the zipper extending onto the collar, so I shortened the zipper and stopped it at the top before the collar.  I was worried about easing the leather sleeve cap into the armscye, but I had no troubles.  All the hems were glued and I catch-stitched the lining (china silk from my stash) to the hem.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I think that if I sewed it again, I would add another 1/2 inch to the collar width.  The finished width was only about 2 1/2 inches, a bit insubstantial for a jacket, IMO. 
This jacket pattern is very close fitting, but with some tweaking, it can be comfortable.  I had lots of fun with it, "re-tooling" an old out-of-
date leather jacket.   Like the sew stylish article said, think small when recycling a garment.  It seemed like the new jacket was half the size of my old one, but I was still peicing together leather to make pattern pieces big enough.  By the time I got to the collar, I was out of usable leather.  Luckily, I had some black ultra-leather in my stash I could use.  Talk about recycling!
Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!!

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