Vogue 1093

Vogue1093 004

Vogue 1093 is a DKNY pattern taken right from her 2008 collection:

Donna Karen2


Donna Karen

Another variation with long sleeves, also from Style.com

Three words describe this top for me:  lovely, dramatic, and sculptured.  But, mostly, just lovely!  The above picture might make you think that my pockets are lopsided, but that’s just the way my form is positioned.  From the pattern envelope:  “Unlined, fitted, above hip length top has wide neckline, collar, and lapel, patch pockets and flaps, flat fell princess seams, yoke extending into turn back sleeves, front extensions forming side pockets, topstitch and button trim.”  This is classified as Advanced, and this is correct, based on all those previously mentioned details.  These details aren’t difficult, but there’s a lot of them, which makes for a time-intensive project.  This pattern also calls for a tightly woven fabric (such as canvas, denim, or gabardine) with stretch.  Given the facts that I didn’t use a stretch fabric and that the pattern was “fitted”, I went up a size from my usual 12 to a 14.  I made no other adjustments and I’m not sure how one could.  Even the envelope says “no provision made for above waist adjustment”.  There are so many oddly shaped pattern pieces, with pleating, and folding, I don’t know how you would alter the fit of the pattern without making a full muslin (and that would be a HUGE pain!).  Fortunately, this is pretty fit-friendly for me.  I certainly did not need to go up a size, even without using stretch fabric.  However, if you usually add waist length to Vogue Patterns, I highly recommend making a muslin.

I used a home decorator weight linen from my stash.  I fused the facing pieces and under collar (cut in 2 pieces on the bias) with interfacing.  The best thing (the VERY BEST thing) about this pattern is the detailed instructions, without which, I couldn’t have made this.  The pictures are straight-forward, and there are no confusing steps.

Vogue1093 005

Vogue1093 006

This bottom front extension-type thing-y has 4 areas to pleat, which creates the puffy effect.  All seams are felled and clean-finished.

Vogue1093 008

But the important question is, How does it fit?

Vogue1093 009

Vogue1093 011

Honestly, I could have stuck with the size 12, but I still love it!

Vogue1093 010

For all intents and purposes, this is a sleeveless garment with those sleeves turned back.  One thing I did do differently is space the two front buttons further apart.  I went back and forth over whether or not I should add a 3rd button down the front, but I kept it at two.

Okay, so there are quite a few technical details in this garment:  4-point notched collar, 2 each of patch pockets and pocket flaps, tons of topstitching and edge-stitching (like, every seam), and tricky pleating that needs to be accurately marked on fabric.  My topstitching left something to be desired; fortunately, this linen hides it very well.  If you decide to make this (and I highly recommend it), take your time, keep the directions handy, and you will make something TDF!

    • Dont
    • April 6th, 2009

    Bravo! Worth the time you obviously put into it–looks great on you.NancyThe Feed Dog.com

    • Cindy
    • April 9th, 2009

    That IS lovely! I adore the lines of the back. It looks wonderful on you. Thanks for commenting on my blog. :)

    • Shannon
    • April 15th, 2011

    I am making this suit for my sister as a graduation present. She is a size 4 with a 32C chest in normal adult women’s wear, and I am unsure of what size to make for her. Based on the size chart, I am thinking about cutting out the size 10. You said you made a 14, but could have been fine with a 12. Do you mind if I ask your size in normal women’s wear? Sorry to be so nosey, I am just worried about the size.

    • Hey Shannon, you’re right, I definitely think you could make that in a 10 or even 8. I’m a 34 1/2″ bust, I normally wear size 8 in RTW. I stick with size 12 in big 4 patterns. Good luck! I love this top! I know your sister will too. -Ellen

  1. May 14th, 2013

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Enjoying a RTW FAST since 2015! Creator of "DESIGNIN' DECEMBER!" Addicted to sewing since the 70's! In a few words, I want to try everything, learn everything and talk about it with you!

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