Vogue 8156

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Garment #2 completed!  Whew!  The kids went back to school this week and so did I, so to speak.  I know I’ve said this before, but any time you want to "take" a great couture sewing class, sit down with one of Claire Shaeffer’s sewing patterns for Vogue.  This is Vogue 8156, which is now out of print.  I’ve made one other pair of pants from her line, Vogue 7881 and they are also fabulous.  The time and hand sewing that you commit to on these garments produce great results, on pieces that are classic and will hang in your closet for years and years. 
From the envelope, these are "straight-legged pants (semi-fitted through the hip)  that have contour yoke with front button closure, mock fly zipper, carriers, back welt pocket with buttoned flap and turned back cuffs."  I made up a muslin first, as the instructions suggested and made my typical alterations, shortening the leg by 2 inches, shortening at the petite line at the hip, adding to the side seams.  Also, this time, I tried a full front thigh adjustment, following Sandra Betzina’s book "Fast Fit…".  The fit is quite good, I’m getting closer and closer to that holy grail, sewing the perfect fitting pair of pants. LOL
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There are lots of details here.  The pants are unlined except at the yoke.  The method of zipper insertion is the easiest one of all, in my opinion.  Yes, it’s inserted by hand, but it’s secure and precise.  Instructions for hanger ribbons are included and I did mine in red ribbon for the heck of it.  I did deviate from the instructions by serging the leg seams and zipper ends.
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How about that welt and pocket flap?  I’m completely proud of how those plaids on the flap matched up!  And, it wasn’t hard.  The instructions tell exactly how to do this.  My pocket opening is not perfect (they never are).  I was visited upon by the sewing gremlins all during this construction.  I couldn’t tell right side and wrong side on this fabric.  Plus, if I looked at it long enough, the stripes start moving, much like those old TV test patterns.  I had to remake the opening after I had already slashed through the fabric.  Before starting all over with another back piece, I sewed a piece of organza around the already cut hole and turned that in.  So, the pocket opening is bound with organza and then the welts are centered into the opening and sewed on the back.
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I like the belt carriers and the cuffs detailing.  Here’s a back view:
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Yikes! Enough.

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This fabric is wool suiting, possibly blended.  It presses beautifully.  When I was handling it, it felt really soft, but when I wear the pants, they are slightly scratchy.  I may go back and line them; a few wearings will tell. 

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