Vogue 2873

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My first completed garment in the Mini-Wardrobe contest!  This is Vogue 2873, a great Michael Kors designer pattern, which is now oop.
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I have such a thing for these dramatic collars, but I’ve learned that they need extra care in construction-usually more than what the given instructions provide.  First of all, at the outset, I strongly recommend making a test muslin for this jacket.  That’s probably a "duh" thing for those of you who make muslins for a lot of garments, but I don’t.  Usually for something that’s lined, I use the lining fabric to make up my tests (dangerous and/or lazy, I know, but it mostly works for me…mostly).  This is made with mix-n-match stuff, including an old bed sheet.
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I had to do some fussing with the bust point being too high, and some pulling across the chest.  You can see where the red threads are that I altered the fit across the bust (I think that’s called an FBA).  I also did my usual shortening of the sleeves by 2 inches, as well as shortened the length of the cuff.  I did not adjust the body length, and I turned up only 1" for the bottom hem, so it’s a bit lower than the picture suggests.  I made other adjustments under the arms in the front and back, pulling in back wrinkles and raising the sides under the arms slightly.  As far as the pattern instructions are concerned, other reviewers at PR indicated that they were a bit lacking, so I briefly glanced at them, but followed the construction techniques written in Claire Shaeffer’s "Couture Sewing Techniques".  Beginning with the interfacing,
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I interfaced the entire jacket with a woven fusible.  I underlined the front pieces only with silk organza.  Following the directions in my book, I taped the collar roll line and the front jacket edges.  The roll line is not marked on the pattern pieces, so I had to sew up the garment and mark it on the garment.  The same goes for the roll line of the under collar as well.
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Next came the pad stitching of the under collar and lapel.  Again, following the directions in the book, make pad stitches in the neck portion smaller than those in the lapel.
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The rest of construction is fairly straight-forward.  There are lots of cute details  on this jacket, including epaulets,
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back belt,
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Faux pocket flap detail,
and topstitching.
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Keyhole buttonholes were made with my trusty Singer Slant-Needle 301.
The fabric is a thick wool flannel from Gorgeous Fabrics and the crazy lining is from my stash.  I’m pretty sure it’s from the ’80’s.
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Garment One, completed!
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    • Unknown
    • August 9th, 2008

    Beautiful job and beautiful coat. You must be very proud of such a professional job. Can’t believe you have already finished it.

    • Maddy
    • August 11th, 2013

    I’ve been looking everywhere for this pattern in my size! You’re coat turned out beautifully.

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Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!!

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