Vogue 8259

I made progress on the jacket yesterday during the rainy afternoon
Sewing pictures5
All the jacket seams are complete.  Here is an inside shot:
Sewing pictures6
Here’s the lowdown on what I did differently from the instructions.  Remember, I was using a "steam and shrink" article from this post.  That ended up being the only thing I did direction-wise from that article.  Here’s the rest:
-I started with a size 10 and altered for fit by increasing the CB seam 1/4" and side-back seams 1/4".  I also added 1/4" to the sleeve back seam, as well as shortening the sleeve 1".  I’m not worried about altering the neck opening, because I’ll just steam out the fullness if it needs it.  Since I’m using a wool fabric, this will hopefully work out fine.
-I hand-quilted the lining to the fabric pattern pieces.  I was able to "hide" this stitching better when doing it by hand.  Machine quilting showed up on the outside.
-I used china silk for lining and silk organza for underling.  I wanted to use silk charmeuse, but didn’t have any on hand.  Why didn’t I just go out and buy some, you ask?  Who knows? I should have!
-The biggest deviation from the "norms" of this type of construction was that I machine-stitched the lining/underlining and then hand-stitched the outer fabric.  This made sense to me in my (twisted) mind because the lining fabric was the one that was most "stable" if you will, or correct.  The outer fabric was cut with straight seams and then steamed and shrunk, so I felt it was needing to be pieced more carefully.  Hand-stitching the outer seams also improved the matching of the pattern.  They’re not perfect.  It was annoying to me that after all the pinning and careful handwork that those pesky seams still managed to shift.
-You can see in the picture below the effect of the steaming on the lines of the fabric.  This is the underarm side piece sewn to the back.  The shaping is very subtle.  The final different thing I did was quilt the side pieces.  The directions in both the magazine article and the pattern tell you to leave out the quilting in those sections.
Sewing pictures4
Next come the sleeves, which I haven’t cut out yet.  This may be set aside for a while.  I’m getting impatient to get to the Spring/Summer sewing!
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  1. January 27th, 2013
    Trackback from : Vogue 8259 « SewEllen

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