Vogue 8259

I’ve been wanting to try this "steam and shrink" couture technique ever since I read about it in the August/September 2006 issue of Vogue Patterns:
Vogue8259 006
Vogue8259 007
So, for some reason (sucker for punishment, I guess), I started this week by fitting my muslin for Vogue 8259, which is a jacket in Clair Schaffer’s Coutoure Collection.  After getting the fit I wanted with the muslin, I began my process.  The article outlines a method for making a Chanel-style jacket, including the quilted lining, but also uses a steam-and-shrink technique to shrink the fabric  pieces (basically rectangles) to match the shaped pieces of the lining.  Here are the basics:
Vogue8259 005 
The lining pieces are cut directly from the patterns.  Note that the shaping of the pattern piece.  Then, the fashion fabric is cut from the same pattern piece, but without the shaping at the waist.  Here’s another picture:
Vogue8259 004
This preserves the plaid lines (or in this case, a houndstooth).  I just took a striaght-edge and cut the fabric out from the top to the bottom at the waist edge.  After cutting out lining and fabric pieces, baste them together at the edges:
Vogue8259 001
This creates a bubble in the fashion fabric:
Vogue8259 003
With your iron, steam and shrink the fabric to match the lining.  Now, of course, all of this works only when using  wool or wool blend.  This is a 100% wool houndstooth that worked very well.  So this is how I spent my Saturday afternoon!  It took all afternoon to cut and shrink the pieces for the back, side back, side front, and front.  This is a time-consuming procedure, but hopefully, my efforts will be worth it.  Next comes the quilting of the pieces. 
You may have heard about the tornadoes in our area today; thankfully, our house was not hit.  I Pray for those whose lives were affected by it.  On to sewing… 
  1. January 2nd, 2011
    Trackback from : 2010 in review « SewEllen

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