Vogue 2204

I finally did it!  I have been sooo needing a black winter coat.  I have a brown one, but sometimes, it just isn’t the look I want.  I’ve been shopping informally for some time for some reasonably priced black wool coating.  I DID find some beautiful wool/cashmere at Mood fabrics in NY last November, but at $80.00/yd, I couldn’t justify buying 6 yds of it, plus another suitcase to lug it back home.  Thanks to all you bloggers out there, I have a new love called www.gorgeousfabrics.com !  There, I bought a beautiful piece of black wool coating and began the process.  The pattern I used was another story, and it started with the 2001 issue of Vogue Patterns and #2204, a Claude Montana coat.  Georgous, but would this be too much of a look for me?  Would the enormous collar make me look like a clown? hmmm…. Well, I finally got brave this year, ’07, and went to buy it.  Naturally, the pattern was OOP by then and I couldn’t find it anywhere.  Finally, one appeared on ebay, my size and I bought it.
Pattern Description:
From envelope: loose-fitting, slightly flared, lined coat, above ankel, has collar, collar band, princess seams, side front pockets, long two-piece sleeves and purchased cord for raised topstitching.
Pattern Sizing:
6-8-10, I used size 10
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, the pattern has a surface cording detail on the collar, sleeves and at the bottom, which I chose to leave off.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Well…I bought my pattern on ebay (first time to buy a pattern from ebay) and it was missing the first page of the instructions.  Luckly, the coat part was straightforward.  I did refer to Power Sewing Step by Step by Sandra Betzina to insert the inseam pockets, no trouble. 
What did you particularly like  or dislike about the pattern?
I wasn’t too crazy about the way the sleeves were setting in the garment.  These were 2 pieced sleeves and I wasn’t sure if the seams in the back were supposed to meet up with the princess seams of the body.  I took a wild guess and had them offset slightly.  It doesn’t show under the collar.  The collar is the dramatic "thing" on this coat.  It’s made by attaching a collar stand to the coat and then the collar to this piece.  The pattern has a separate undercollar pattern and top collar pattern, as well as separate lining patterns.
Fabric Used:
I used the beautiful wool coating from Georgous Fabrics.  I managed to squeak this coat out of 4 yards of fabric, even though the pattern calls for 5-6 yards.  Black lining was whatever they had at Joanne’s.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
Not much, the usual shortening of sleeve length, and for petites below the waist.  However, this coat is pretty long, so even after all the shortening, I still made a 2 1/2" hem (pattern calls for 2").  The instructions also call for a sleeve facing, much like a cuff, but I left those off, and simply turned up the hem.  I made my own shoulder pads by following the directions in Threads issue #133 pages 64-66, article by Sharon Blair.  Tape the front and back pattern pieces together at the shoulders and trace a shoulder pad pattern.  I then cut out three layers of Warm and Natural Batting and topped that off with cotton organdy.  Then I pad stitched all of that by machine.IMG_2035
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
One of these in your closet is enough, but i love how this turned out!  I think the collar is a very dramatic look.
I think this coat weighs about 20 pounds.  Seriously, this is a nice heavy coat.  I’ll definately wear it the 3 days a year that one needs a heavy coat in Atlanta.  I’m also going to add 2 buttons at the front to close the coat.  The pattern didn’t call for any sort of closure, what’s up with that?
  1. O. My. I have this pattern out for consideration, and love your version! Tell, me, do you still have it? Do you still wear it?

  2. Yes indeed! I’ve pulled it out this week, in fact. I recommend adding a closure of some sort. I do love this coat, it’s dramatic and heavy. Good luck!

    • abbey
    • August 25th, 2017

    What a gorgeous coat. I have this pattern as well and am considering making it. Do you think the pattern would allow for enough overlap to put in buttons? I live in a cold climate.

    • Hi Abbey, yes! I’ve often thought of adding buttons, never got around to it.

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Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!!

Enjoying a RTW FAST since 2015! Creator of "DESIGNIN' DECEMBER!" Addicted to sewing since the 70's! In a few words, I want to try everything, learn everything and talk about it with you!

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