Vogue 7881

Vogue 7881, from Claire Shaeffer’s Custom Couture Collection.  Ah, yes, continuing my love/hate relationship with this wool gabardine!!  First of all, the pattern.  The description reads: straight-legged pants (semi-fitted through hip) have contour, front button yoke and mock-fly zipper.  I made my muslin in size 10, which was too tight in the hips but didn’t need to be any bigger below the knee.  I simply let out the side seams 1/4" all around from the knee up, let out the center back seam 1/4" tapering to the original seamline at the back crotch.  I also increased the waistband a size.  I used the couture construction directions, which had you easing in the shaping at the waistline rather than making darts…not gonna happen with wool gabardine!  (purchased at Denver Fabrics).  After I sewed in the ease lines along the waist lines, I moistened, eased, steamed, moistened again only to get nice little puckers.  You can see them in one of the photos.  This is unfortunate, because I love the way these pants fit and I love the drape of the gabardine.  I rarely make pants because I don’t want to take the time to get the fit right.  These work for me, and the seat isn’t baggy.  The directions don’t call for lining, but I lined these because the wool was kind of scratchy.  There’s no pleats or pockets, which is slimming.  I’ll definitely make these pants again, maybe something with stretch in it? a crepe?
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